The first time I had visited Chile was in 2016 when Phil and I explored the magnificent Atacama Desert in the north of the country. While there, we stayed at the Awasi Resort and had a splendid time exploring the driest desert in the world (that’s another story). Some other guests at Awasi told us we should definitely visit Patagonia and stay at Awasi in the southernmost part of Chile. It took three years until we could fit it into our travel schedule, but we finally made it to the Torres del Paine National Park of Patagonia, where the landscape is indescribable. We flew from Buenos Aires, Argentina to El Calafate, near the Argentinean border. From there, we were driven by a private driver five hours across the border into Chile, and to Torres del Paine in Patagonia.

It was a brutal day of travel to the middle of nowhere, but once we arrived at Awasi, we recovered our energy with the spectacular views of the Tercera Barranca valley and snow-covered Andes mountains in the distance. It was spring season in the southern hemisphere, and there were hundreds of sheep grazing as their energetic baby lambs jumped and leaned close to their mothers. The guanacos, wild animals similar to lamas, were nearly everywhere in the open valleys and foothills. And, although it was still snowing in the mountains, spring flowers were budding all over.

At Awasi, every guest is assigned a private guide who describes the options of hiking, excursions, and other opportunities in an effort to see the most of the area, depending on the guest’s abilities and interests. We were paired with Michelle, a 26 year old native Chilean who knew every part of Torres del Paine, and most of Patagonia. Michelle gave detailed explanations on the map of the area, describing the various hikes and drives we could choose from for the three days we would spend with her. Knowing that I was also interested in the farms and cooking methods in the area, Michelle arranged two visits to different farms for traditional cooking experiences. Our villa was tucked far from the main lodge with views of the “Three Towers”, the massive cliffs in the mountains of the Torres Del Paine National Park. The Awasi chef prepared exquisite dinners each night using local fish, lamb, beef, and vegetables.

Day 1:

On our first morning Michelle picked us up in the Awasi all-terrain vehicle, and we drove 1 1/2 hours on rocky roads to the house of Nestor and Aura’s Estancia Vega Castillo. We sat in their living room and listened to the stories of living in the wilderness during their fifty years of marriage. Nestor had acquired the land in the 1960’s when he was a member of a defunct association that had owned hundreds of thousands of hectares of land. There were 175 members, and they had a lottery drawing for each member to choose the plot of land he could own. Nestor was number 76 in the drawing, and chose a plot he had known all his life. It was undesirable to the others in the group because it didn’t have a house. But he knew it was good land and had a lake full of fish and wildlife. He and Aura built a house and raised their four children, while farming sheep.

While we were there, Aura and I made bread in her small kitchen while their son, Mauricio, cooked a standing lamb next to a fire outside. Standing lamb is a term for a lamb that has been split and opened flat, then threaded on a large spear that is pressed into the ground near an open fire. The heat from the fire slowly cooks the lamb until it is tender and smoked. While Mauricio tended the fire, Nestor took us on a walk to the lake where we saw flamingos and many other birds in the water. Nestor explained that he and his children had found numerous fossils and artifacts on the land, including bolo stones used by ancient hunters as a throwing weapon to entangle the legs of animals. After a very peaceful walk along the lake we returned to the farm and had a picnic of lamb, bread, potatoes, and salad while Mauricio showed us the box of artifacts he had collected over the years. With full stomachs, Michelle drove us back to Awasi as we watched the condors flying high over their prey in the distant valley. Later that evening we dined in the Awasi lounge, eating local trout, fried purple potatoes and sauce seasoned with merken, one of my favorite chile seasonings in the world. For me, it was a perfect day.

Day 2:

Our second day started early as Michelle drove us two hours to the Torre Del Paine National Park where we walked Lake Mordejhold, which was the color of pale blue topaz. The mountains were so majestic they didn’t look real. We walked over an hour and saw a massive waterfall and guanacos everywhere. Michelle took us to a picnic area where she prepared lunch on her portable cooktop. She seared Chilean Provalone cheese and served it with salad and corn soup she kept in a thermos. She heated braised beef and spaeztle and served it with wine as we sat looking at the mountains in the most perfect picnic setting you can imagine. After lunch, we hiked the steep Mirador Condor, a cliff where condors often settle to watch for their prey. It was a difficult climb, especially after such a full lunch, but worth every step! The views from the top of the cliff were breathtaking. We were the only ones there, and the silence was nearly deafening as we took in the views of mountains, lake, and valleys in every direction. The ride back to Awasi was quiet as we were tired and reflective of the beauty we had seen all day.

Day 3:

Day three started with a long drive to a completely different landscape than we had seen on previous days. We soon learned why it was named The Baguales, the Wild Place. The mountains were dry, but covered with the native black bushes, and spring flowers were budding everywhere. We saw fields of horses with many new foals, as well as herds of cattle scattered with baby calves nursed by their mamas.

Michelle took us on a dirt road past a farmhouse to a land formerly run by a sheep farmer, but now mostly abandoned except for the herds of guanaco and wild birds. We started a long hike along the trails made by guanaco that went up into the hills and back down to the riverbed. We ended at a lagoon far in the hills where a man was fishing for lake trout. We had a small picnic of roast beef sandwiches before taking the long walk back to the truck. We looked for the puma, which are rarely seen during the middle of the day, and never spotted one.

Not far from our hike, we drove to the home of Victor Sharp, a sheep farmer who lived with his 28 year-old son, also named Victor. They lived in a farmhouse at the base of a huge mountain range. They owned hundreds of hectares of land where they raised sheep and a few horses. They had slaughtered a lamb that morning to cook for us on our visit. When we arrived, Victor Jr. appeared in his gaucho apparel anxious to show us their home. Victor Sr. was busy in the kitchen rolling bread dough for the pan amasado. After cutting the dough into rounds with a drinking glass, he placed the dough on a baking sheet to rise on the warm century-old wood-fired stove. He didn’t speak English, but Victor Jr. had studied in Arkansas in the U.S. for a year during high school, and spoke very good English. His father brought in a side of lamb and carefully cut it into small pieces with his saw on a small cutting board next to the sink. He liberally sprinkled salt all over the meat and tossed it with dried oregano and chimichurri before taking it outside to the grill that had been heating over live coals for hours. Meanwhile, Michelle peeled and halved potatoes that Victor Sr. again sprinkled liberally with salt before placing in the oven. The bread had just come out of the oven, and Victor added more wood for the potatoes to cook at the highest temperature possible.

Before cooking the lamb, Victor Jr. asked if I wanted to go for a short horseback ride. Of course, I wanted to go! He explained during our ride that he was a horse trainer, and had trained many race horses in the area. The horse he was riding was a rescue horse he had purchased a year before, and was quite wild. Victor said that every time he rode that horse, he was bucked off, but he was determined to gain the trust of the horse by continuing to ride him until he wouldn’t buck. I have to admit, I was a bit skittish to be riding behind a bucking horse, but on our half hour ride to the base of the mountain and back, Victor’s horse never bucked. He was elated, and I tried to convince him that it was because I was riding behind, his horse felt calm enough to behave, and Victor agreed.

When we returned to the farm, Victor Sr. was placing the lamb pieces on the grill. The potatoes were removed from the oven, and had the most unique texture with a crusty skin all over, and tender salty interior. We sat at the dinner table in the kitchen and had a feast of lamb, potatoes, salad, and fresh tomatoes. It was truly the best lamb I have ever tasted. I sat at the table and tried to memorize every bite at that table, knowing I would never experience it again. Victor Sr. had made flan from his mother’s recipe, and it was served for our dessert. I particularly enjoyed it because it wasn’t very sweet, and was perfectly creamy. We said our good-byes, and drove the long distance back to Awasi, just as the sun was setting. It was late when we returned, and we sat in the lodge taking notes on the details of our unforgettable trip to Patagonia.

The experience of spending three days with Michelle was special. She shared so much knowledge, and showed us many unique experiences. But we also became good friends on those long drives as we sang to her music and laughed at her stories. She made every hike an adventure, and pointed out all the things and places that make her native land so dear to her heart. And I learned that Awasi has a new resort at Igauzu Falls. Not sure I can wait three years for that.

I can certainly understand why so many people who grew up in Patagonia cannot leave it. The stillness and beauty are intoxicating. I know we saw a very small part of that wonder of the world, and it would take months to see it all. But the small parts we saw will remain near and dear to my heart.