The Allure Of Basque Country
I had traveled to Spain on several occasions, tasting my way through tapas bars, sampling paella on the beach, and picnicking in the gardens of the magnificent Alhambra. It was years later that I explored the north in the Basque country where the residents consider themselves independent from Spain, although they share the same government. Many consider the Basques to be the last survivors of the aboriginal tribes once populating Europe. And the people hold on to their traditions, not as Spanish, but simply as Basque. They have their own unique culture, language, and cuisine which Basques consider reason enough to be separate from Spain, although the differences go way beyond that. I’ve visited the Basque country on two occasions, exploring San Sebastian, Bilbao, and the wine region of Rioja Alavesa, where I fell in love with the landscapes, the people, the wine, and the incredible food the Basques had to offer.
Throughout Spain, people enjoy a large lunch at 2 pm in the afternoon and dinner at around 10 pm. In between the day’s big meals they hang out in tapas bars for cider, wine, olives, patatas bravas, and other bites. And as the wine is poured, people from all walks of life share stories and chit-chat before finding their next spot at which to graze and sip.
In the Basque country, pintxos bars take the place of tapas bars, but with a more sophisticated swag. In the 1930s, the dainty dishes known as pintxos sprouted in San Sebastian after a handful of restaurants offered bite-sized samples of their menus. To hold the contents together, the eateries speared the snacks with wooden picks. And the miniature meals became so popular that other restaurants followed suit.
Pintxos often look like slivers of bread topped with anything from stuffed peppers to ham, croquettes to deviled eggs. In both San Sebastian and Bilbao my friends and I tested them all, guilt free, as we “pintxo bar hopped” for days. The perfect beverage to wash down pintxos is cider, made from fermented apples which is poured from high in the air to create bubbles in the glass.
Pintxos are not the only reason for my fondness of Basque Country, they also are the natural place and way to love the unique language, music, and people. In every city I visited, including San Sebastian, La Guardia, and Getaria, people seemed genuinely less hurried and more thoughtful. It is common to see couples and small groups sitting quietly in parks and bars, saying few words, just enjoying the moment. It’s so different to me from the bustling lifestyle in other regions.
Because Basques don’t typically invite outsiders into their homes, they host parties at gastronomy clubs known as “sociedades.” The all-male membership provides a place for men to come together to cook. Tables are set so that families and friends can join once the men have prepared the food. I spent a day with sociedades member, Chef Gorka in San Sebastian. After receiving special permission to bring a woman in the kitchen, Chef Gorka had me peeling asparagus and pouring cider while other members teased and winked. I loved it as we fried anchovies and sauteed hake before taking our seats at the table with his friends.
The Rioja Alvaesa wine region boasts some of the best red wine in the world, mostly based on the Tempranillo grape variety. Many of the wineries are set in medieval structures, but there are a number of avant-garde facilities including Marqués de Riscal and Ysios, which were both exquisite to visit, but I much preferred the wines from the small family producers scattered all over the area.
I’ll always hold a special fondness for the Basque country, not only for its food and drink, but for the determination of its people to preserve their heritage and traditions. If you’re looking for a unique place to travel where the pace is a little slower and the landscapes are magnificent, visit the Basque country and prepare yourself for an adventure you’ll never forget.
